Art Deco Gruen
10kt gold filled bezel, Roestvrij staal 'Guildite'
Uurwerk cal. 406SS
ca. 38-29.5 x 27.5 mm (incl. kroon)
This early 40’s Gruen has clearly been influenced by the Art Deco era. Due to the very pronounced sweep second, this could well be a doctor’s watch.
The inside case back is signed ‘cased and timed in the USA BY GRUEN Watch Co. Wadsworth’, so in other words, the movement and dial are from Switzerland and the casing from USA, nice collaboration to insure perfection. The Gruen ‘Veri-Thin’ wristwatch calibers were engineered thinner along the edges, to create a flatter illusion.
The 10-carat yellow gold-filled bezel has a stainless steel 'Guildite' back. Guildite (from 'Gruen Guild') is Gruen's brand name for a stainless-steel alloy. A wrist watch spends much of its time in close contact with the skin, so it is important that the composition of the alloy is acid proof and corrosion resistant.
The Gruen has incorporated more rare alloys, engraved on the balance cock of the movement it reads ‘Conoruma’. This alloy was created to cause minimal expenditure or contract despite temperature changes. Temperature changes can actually cause a watch to run slightly fast or slower, so balances and hairsprings made of Conoruma alloys can help combat this problem.
These are just some of the quirky and canny aspects of this striking vintage Gruen watch.